Lady Victoria’s Secret
Lady Victorian’s Secret
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Every woman who has wished her chest filled out a form-fitting dress, stepped into Victoria’s Secret searching for just the right padded (or water) bra, or used silicone inserts to fill out a dress (or swimming suit or bra) understands exactly why American women in the Victorian Era bought Bust Pads. A Lady Victorian’s Secret.
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Secret Padding
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Lady Victorian’s Secret No. 1. Yes, most of us think of corsets as necessary with Victorian-era (and Edwardian-era) costumes. Some dresses were “natural fit” and intended to be worn without “stays” (a corset). Did you know padding was also used to emphasize the “hourglass” figure and focus the eye on the small waist?
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Bust pad and hip pads with bustle, from the 1897 Sears Catalog, no. 104.
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Two posts ago, when covering Victorian Hair Augmentation (hair pieces, among other devices), I shared an image of a warning published in 1873 (and circulated within several editions of the Matrimonial News) wherein Judge John H. Arbuckle stated such padding would be grounds to declare a mail-order marriage null and void…if the ‘fooled’ groom so desired. Here it is once more:
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This warning appeared as an insert in several editions of the Matrimonial News in the 1870‘s, notice by Judge John H. Arbuckle (1873). While this image is readily available (without citations) on the internet and various websites, I believe this image (and the caption) comes from at least one mail-order bride nonfiction title by Chris Enss.
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NOTHING NEW
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If women were guilty in the American Victorian Era of padding some parts and minimizing others, they’ve done nothing others haven’t done both before and after them. (Who says corsets are out of fashion, entirely?)
English Lords–physically inactive as most were–often wore girdles to skinny in their midsections and padded their shoulders and arms and thighs in order to cut a fine figure in their expensive attire. Ladies did the same. Not only was a bit of weight (plump hips, plump breasts and arms) considered a sign of wealth (after all, only the wealthy could afford to be idle and pay someone else to do the work) but considered stylish.
Victorian-era women worldwide had worn their skirts in the large bell reminiscent of Civil War-era images. The bigger the better. Once the bell skirt began to diminish and eventually embark on the “bustle era”, skirts were still strongly shaped by the foundation garments beneath.
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Bustle of 1872, from ~Pauline Weston Thomas for Fashion-Era.com
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One can only assume Judge John H. Arbuckle did not mention bustles in his list of divorce-able offenses because men understood, generally, that the shape of a woman’s lower body was not defined by the shape of her skirt. so why was the padding of hips listed? Note the first image, above, showing the Sears Catalog offering of a combination bustle and hip pads. In the Victorian Era, steel boning in corsets strengthened the garment adequately to constrict the waist smaller than ever before. Those who study fashion will note that every element of a woman’s costume drew the eye to the smallness of her waist: balloon sleeves, wide collars, drapes across the hips, and apparently–padding of those hips.
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Victorian BUST PADDING
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Padding the bust, perhaps the least surprising of all. Here’s Lady Victorian’s Secret No. 2.
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Corset Advertisement within the Montgomery, Ward & Co. Catalog of 1895, stating: “It has perfectly formed self-sustaining “Tricora” busts, which will give to every lady wearing it the outlines of perfect development and stylish figure.
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Two examples of Bust Enhancers, labeled “Dress Forms” for sale in the Montgomery, Ward & Co. Catalog of 1895.
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“Lemon Cup” bust improver, circa 1890 © The Symington Corsetry Collection, via Victoria and Albert Museum

Lemon Cup Breast Enhancers circa 1890, via La Gatta Ciara

Bust Improvers of 1880 to 1910‘s, via Pinterest and La Gatta Ciara
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Victorian 1840s to 1850s ball gown shows large bust improver sewn into dress, from Pinterest
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PRINCESS BUST DEVELOPER AND BUST CREAM
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Lady Victorian’s Secret No. 3. Feed the curves, and grow them. Maybe with the help of a doctor.
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Princess Bust Developer and Bust Cream or Food, Sears Roebuck & Co., 1897.
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With help of a physician
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See Dr. Popper, Specialist, for all kinds of disfigurements of the face, superfluous hair, etc. and for the enlargement of the bust. Advertised in San Francisco Chronicle on March 9, 1890.
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Victorian HIP PADDING and Bustles
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Lady Victorian’s Secret No. 4. Pad the hips, bustles for the shape of the skirt. Maximize those curves!
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The “Empire Skirt Cushion” (small bustle) and The Combination Hip Bustle (hip pad with bustle). Advertised in Sears Catalogue No. 107, Consumer’s Guide, 1898.
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Different styles made different shape skirts look their best.
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The “Angeline” Bustle, made of heavy cambric, filled with the best quality curled hair. From Sears 1898 Catalogue.
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New Langry Bustle Skirting. Advertised in Chicago Daily Tribune of Chicago, Illinois. March 11, 1888.
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Scott Hipform and Bustle. C.1903. An unusual shaped three piece turn of the century bustle made out of white sateen and stuffed with horsehair. Metal grommets allow for ventilation. This type of bustle was worn by extremely slender women who wanted to pad out their hips and bum to achieve a balanced hourglass shape. The original tag is still attached is is marked as being a size 8. Sizes 00 up to a size 1 were worn by very large ladies as they were made less padded, etc. with sizes going up for smaller figures. Via Pinterest and Corsets and Crinolines.
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1870 horsehair bustle, via Pinterest and VintageTextile.com
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Victorian Waist Supporter
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Ready for Lady Victorian’s Secret No. 5? Use supporters that give sustainable shape to special clothing. e.g., Leg-o-mutton sleeves and blousing waist fronts.
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Leg-O-Mutton Sleeve Supporter, credited to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, by Pinterest user.
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Just like the leg-o-mutton sleeves of the 1890s had sleeve supporters, women’s blouse “waists” had waist front distenders.
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Waist Front Distender. Prevents shirt waists and full front garments from clinging to the figure and for giving that full bust and small waist effect to the wearer. For sale in 1898 Sears Catalog.
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Updated July 2019
Copyright © 2016 Kristin Holt LC